Monday, April 25, 2016

Stepping stone to something bigger

So I’ve been back for about a month now and I’m still struggling with some aspects of American culture that I forgot existed or have started since I left.  But I haven’t forgotten my promise to try to document any interesting insights that I might stumble across or new lessons that I found hidden away in my experiences in Burkina Faso, but every time I try to start a post I realize that while I have lived my life these last two years—you, my dedicated readers, have not lived my life these last two years.  Sometimes I will have these really cool realizations only to come up short remembering that to somebody who didn’t know have all of the background information my really cool realization would really only sound like disjointed ramblings.  So here’s the plan.  As I previously promised I will continue to share random stories from my time in Burkina along with my thoughts about those experiences.  They won’t necessarily always be in chronological order, or funny, or interesting.  But I like to think that they are all important as far as gelling together my larger takeaways from my time in Burkina.  Then again we do risk getting to the end of this whole creative process only to find that my final points still just sound like disjointed ramblings.  But isn’t the risk what makes it exciting? 
So without further ado, here is the first brush stroke that shall be the word based painting of my life.  Sounded kind of cool right?  This is an old essay that I wrote up last year per request of somebody in our Bureau.  I don’t think they ever did anything with this piece, but it was fun to write and quite possibly shall be fun to read.  See you next week.



“I am because WE are and, since we are, therefore I am.” (John S. Mbiti)

Success Story
Just plain old dirt.
Working in the yard has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember.  Growing up out on an old horse pasture in Western Washington my typical Summer Sunday was spent wheelbarrowing around mass quantities of weeds, tending the vegetable gardens, trying to get the orchards to start producing, and any other landscaping activity that cropped up in an ecosystem that pushes living vegetation out faster than anyone cut it back.   So with this background it didn’t take much deliberating to decide to start a small home garden at village shortly after my affectation.  There was nobody around yet because of the rains, I had no work so to speak, and I’ve always found the raising of living things to be relaxing and an excellent and tangible time keeper.  I knew nothing of gardening in the Sahel and so I decided to go with the trial by error approach and just wing it, I did have time after all.  My first garden was poorly dug, rocky, and quickly demolished by my pet chicken.  All this in the relative secrecy of my courtyard.  Time for Garden number two: this time I planned to put up some light fencing around the boarder and so I talked to Christophe, my community homologue, and we left the next day to the Marché village to pick up materials. This served as an excellent opportunity for me to bond with my new community homologue and it also ensured that the entire village would now know what the Nassara (read “stranger”) was doing with his spare time.  I was the first volunteer in Kogho in a decade, I was a white foreigner from a different culture, and quite frankly I was a mystery to my community.  They don’t know what people from Western Culture do for fun, what motivates them, or what makes them tick.  By starting Garden round 2 I was offering them a puzzle piece to add to their sparse collection of Nassara puzzle pieces.  When you spend time in my village quietly listening to “Nassara” you hear more than just a word.  You hear a statement, desperately trying to make sense of a confusing situation.  You hear a question.  You hear the assumptions.  And you hear the gaps.  But you don’t hear malice.  Insisting not to be called Nassara creates just as many questions as it does answers.  You give them your real name, you insist that you are only called that name, and they are left still wondering what that name means.  When asking around village for the names of other members of the community you find that nobody has the name they chose. 
“What is his name?”
“Karensamba” [Teacher]
“And him?”
“Chef” “Sous-chef” “L’inspector” “Le Proviseur” “Monsieur le sous prefet”
They have the name they were given.  The names that recognize their role in a community rather than their identity as an individual.  In the community they are their given name and the names given to us by others can be a lot more telling than the names given to us by ourselves.  To change your self-given name requires merely a personal decision.  To change a community given name requires time plus willingness to learn from both you and the community in question.  It was in this vain that I progressed from Garden 2 to Garden 3.  I had to let the community take the time to learn who I was, and I had to take the time to first learn what the community thought I was, and then help them learn and listen to them teach.  If gardens must be rated by quantity of edible goods produced, Garden 2 was a complete failure.  Because there were zero of those things.  But if a garden is to be rated by number of conversations started, or by friendships created, then Garden 2 was a huge success.  School started around the same time as Garden 2 and with that came a steady increase in visits from students.  They would come by to greet me and then see my attempted garden. 
“What is that?”
The question just barely masking the question
“who are you?”
That’s my garden.  I’m trying for squash and spices.  Here’s what you can do with squash.  With basil.  With mint.  Here smell the basil.  Try the mint.  Could you grab that watering can?  Yes, water it just like that.  Why don’t you come back again on Friday?  I was thinking about starting some cucumbers and I could really use your help.
As time went on I slowly developed a small group of students who would come by two to three times a week, they would help with the garden chores, ask questions, and usually go home with some sort of problem to puzzle over, or a new sapling that they were responsible for keeping alive.  Some of these same students were in my 4eme SVT class which conveniently enough was a Geology course offering up many opportunities to relate the subject material to my garden, trees, agriculture, and their lives in general.  Believing that critical thinking skills in relation to the environment might be a use skill to leave my students with I also began using a new section on all of my tests.  It was always titled “Monsieur Kennedy, Le Geologue” and in these sections were situations in my lab, my field work, my fields, or any geology related location in which they would be given clues and they would either have to identify the problem, think of a solution, or label a new discover.  Over time I found that my name among the village school kids was no longer just Monsieur, the fallback name for a professor, I was now Monsieur le Geologue.  Some of the blanks were being filled in. 
That brings us to Garden 3 and another name.  Garden two had been dug up by my dog and the final result was as follows.  Dead mint plants: 1. Almost completely dead and unusable Basil plants: 1. Papaya tree barely clinging to life: 1. Squash plant with one withered disappointment on it: 1. And cabbage plants: -1, dog didn’t even give those a chance to sprout.  So it was back to the drawing board, uprooted and re-dug everything while my pride insisted that I explain to the students the beauty of the scientific method and that carefully evaluated failures are actually just as important as the evident successes and more important than unexplainable windfalls.  Garden 3 had carrots and cucumbers as well as some new homemade drip irrigation bottles that could be replicated on a village budget with easy to find village materials.  I told my kids that I had never tried this before, but this was our chance to experiment and see if they worked.  Around this time the small group of student gardeners started referring to my home garden as “le laboratoire” because a laboratory that only produces carefully documented failures gives a stronger impression of success than a garden that produces only carefully documented inedible failures.  New name.  Garden 3 was just as unsuccessful as Garden 2 if we follow the “edible products yielded” rhetoric because my dog once again laid in wait until the garden began showing signs of promise before sowing the seeds of destruction once more.  Yet this time the results that were yielded were much farther reaching than even I could have imagined, not knowing that results like this could be found within a seed.  The start of garden 3 brought the students and the school administration to me with a strong push for a school garden, having been told by my professional homologue who had attended our IST that this was something that a volunteer could bring to a community.  The motivation from the administration was encouraging, but what moved me to put this project into action was the fact that my student gardeners were itching to start their own laboratories and more than anything a match once struck needs a place to burn and so we began work on providing these students with a place to imagine and experiment.  After having prepared, submitted, and received my Grant funds for the garden project as well as a separate Moringa project,  I was on to Garden 4. 
Garden 4 was the realization of my entire garden adventure as well as the stepping stone into the second half of my service.  Garden 4 was started with the advice of a tidy little notebook filled with well-documented failures and the wariness of my dog, who had finally learned that the route to a happier life did not lay in the confines of that garden.  With the onset of the rains my garden burst into a productivity of cucumbers and beans and new names.  I was Chef Garte, Chef de l’eau et foret, Ouedraougo Ryende, Monsieur le Geologue, le cultivateur, a credible source of advice, a part of the community, a part of their system, but before all this, in village I was still Nassara.  I have been Nassara the entirety of my service and I will continue to be until the day that I leave this country because no matter how much of this culture I absorb I will still always be a stranger, but that is not a bad thing, it’s simply recognition of reality.  I’m also not the same Nassara that I was when I first arrived in Kogho.  Within the calls of “Nassara” that I get every day that I stroll through the village the gaps are now filled in with the answers I’ve given and the questions are answered by everything that my village permits me to be.  I think that it is important to remember when entering into this style of service in this part of the world that we leave behind a lot more than toilets and cheese.  We also leave behind a culture that has been informing us how to be since the day we were born.  We leave behind the Descartian Western ideal of “I think, therefore I am” and step into a world where we must subject to the dictum of “you think, therefore I am”.
Looking back on my first year it has been amazing to see what can come of plain ol dirt and as these two fenced enclosures are finished and I begin to take steps to wrap up the grants it will be exciting to see what can continue to grow from whatever it was that I planted in the first home garden.  But what has been more exciting than any of the work that I have been doing has been the learning experience of trying to understand how to be a piece of something bigger than yourself rather than an isolated individual moving around in a big vast space vainly trying to save the world.




So here’s a shot of Garden 4, I find that while I still consider Gardens 1-3 to be intellectual and emotional successes a garden full of your “typical success” (read “edible growing things”) to make a much better photo than one filled with carefully documented failures.  As important as those are.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Back in America?

Well I’m back.  Not how I had planned. Not when I planned.  But after spending two years abroad in Burkina I had already learned that we don’t control nearly as much of our lives as we like to think we do.  Control is a luxury.  And in America we are able to afford more of it than other parts of the World, but less of it is as real as we would like to belief.  So let’s go after some concrete examples before I lose you down the rabbit hole. 
In the Peace Corps you leave your friends and family behind and set off into the developing world with your naive ideas of travel, saving the world, and life and dive right in.  You learn a new language or two.  You try to eat new foods.  You get really sick.  You learn that a very small percentage of the world’s population uses toilet paper. And you learn that you in fact don’t know anything.  It’s overwhelming and you feel yourself spinning out of control.  Or at least I did, during my first three months of service in my village.  It was one of those afternoons when I hadn’t interacted with a single person in 3 days because everyone was living out on the fields and the remaining population were too scared to come talk to me.  I don’t know what we would have talked about anyways; I didn’t really speak the language.  And on these afternoons I often brought up the question “Ryan, what the hell did you do?”.  I felt lost and so I went about trying to nail down my life.  Create control.  I developed a daily routine so that all (almost all) my time was spent productively, I aggressively studied French, I dug a garden, I outfitted my home, I maintained my sanity, and by month three I was feeling pretty good about myself.  I had done it, I had exerted myself on my environment and I had won, I had controlled what had happened to me and I would continue to control what happened to me and in that control I felt safe.  Well my first year of service rolled along and every day I continued to pour more of myself into this service, this village, this work, this life.  As each day went by less of me was left in America and more of me started filling the space around me in my village and probably would have continued as such if I hadn’t been given a painful reminder of how little we control in life.
It’s September 2015, a little after I hit my one-year in village mark and everything fell to pieces.  I am going to make the assumption that all you readers closely followed the political events that have unfolded in Burkina over the last two years so I won’t go into details, but this was the Military coup.  I had already weathered a public uprising that had ousted a 27 year dictator so I expected more of the same, but then all of the sudden we were getting calls to pack our house up, and before you knew it we were getting calls to get out and that we were consolidating.  Well that was hard.  Your whole life has to go into boxes in the space of 24 hours and you don’t even have boxes so you can imagine the difficulties.  What about all that control that I had?  All my work? My routines? All of my life that I have poured into this place?  Well that didn’t matter because that’s not how life works.  I was about to lose everything and there wasn’t a thing I could do about it.  Not because I did anything wrong, not because I was particularly unlucky, but because that’s just how life works.  It’s this huge uncaring unknowing colossus and we control it about as much as we control…something equally uncontrollable. 
Well that was a tough two weeks, every day not knowing if you stay or if you go.  Calling your friends in village to see how everyone is doing.  Getting good news followed by bad news followed by good news again until finally it was over and we were going home. To village that is.  Well unfortunately that wasn’t the end of my tumult.  A few months after that due to security concerns our travel zones in country were restricted and travel to the capital was reduced and monitored.  Control shrinking.  Or never there to begin with.  And then the terrorist attacks in January shook everything to its core.  Those are the kind of events in life that do nothing but remind everyone that life can’t be controlled. But I guess that’s the point of terrorism?  Well it worked.  Our lives in country were irrevocably changed after that.  The security restrictions, the travel restrictions, the way people looked at us after, and the loss of innocence.  Even a trip to the Market started feeling risky and there were police and metal detectors everywhere. There wasn’t time to think “why me?” or that this was incalculably unlucky that this had to happen during my service, or if only I had served somewhere else, or any of those classic thoughts that come up whenever something terrible happens.  Because at the end of the day, we have no control over it and we’re better off making due with what we do have rather than lamenting that which we don’t. 
So here I am, right about the 2 year mark in my service sitting in America, not Burkina.  But I long ago lost my sense of control.  And that’s ok.  I was sent home early due to some medical complications.  Nothing serious but based on standard Peace Corps operating procedures I couldn’t stay in country.  Was this one of the hardest turnarounds in my life?  Well yes.  I was in wrap up mode.  I had just finished an awesome training on animal husbandry with two members of my village, the garden was productive and full of life and it was because of my professors and not myself, our Moringa garden was filling up with trees, and my students had picked up on all the zany ways I teach leading to a great rapport.  My village was so proud of the progress they had made and I was ready to simply “be”. Just live out my last few months in village, die a little from the heat, plant my fields, and take time to say good bye to this little village that I had spent the last two years of my life filling with myself.  And then it was gone.  And no matter which way I try to look at this one in my head it hurts.  This is not how I planned it; this is not how it was supposed to happen.  But I have taken my time to grieve, it was hard, but I can’t fix my situation by looking for a reason why, Burkina taught me that.  I can just accept that it happened and then I have to let go, because that’s life.  And now I take the next step in my life knowing that loss like this is inevitable and scarily enough it happens to somebody every single day.
So we have no control.  What does this mean?  Well I don’t have an answer for you, and if that was what you were reading for then stop now. I command you.  Or don’t.  What it means to me is that our lives and our decisions are a product of so much more than just us.   Any decision that we make has been informed by the culture groups that we occupy and even when we have an original thought or idea there were a lot of moving pieces that contributed to our arrival at this decision.  We operate within an unstable system and there are multi-trillion dollar industries that exist for the sole purpose of making us think what we think and no matter how hard we work in life to create our legacy, to amass things, to control, that can all disappear in one single second.  And that takes different forms for different people.  A poor medical diagnosis, a surprise medical bill, an unplanned pregnancy, a terrorist attack, a drone strike, a failed class, the list goes on and occupies a huge spectrum from tiny to life changing, but that should just impress upon us the vastness of the world and what our place in it looks like this.  So what do we do in the face of the terrifying possibility that any of us could lose everything at any moment? I don’t know.  But I do know that I should stop using the collective “we” because that’s annoying.  Well what do I do?  Let go.  I look back at my service and while I lost a lot of myself when my service was ended before I was ready I find it more telling to look at what wasn’t lost.  While there I made some of the closest friends I have ever had in life.  And whether I had stayed until July or left when I did their lives will be different for having known me and my life will be different for having known them.  While my presence in Burkina individually probably didn’t do much to change the overall trajectory of their country’s development I can at least take pride in knowing that I participated in a group that worked with Burkina to make a better future for Burkina and America both.  And having seen how much a group truly affects the individuals within it I can be thankful for all of the people and groups that have surrounded me my entire life that have helped develop me into the person that I am today.
I don’t really see this as the end of my service.  More the next step.  The things we learn as volunteers don’t have to stop just because we aren’t abroad anymore.  In fact just the opposite.  When we got to Burkina we were a collection of naive enthusiastic Americans who had to spend our whole first year learning how to apply what we knew into a Burkinabé cultural context and now it’s time to try to take what we learned in Burkina and try to apply it to an American Cultural context.  We learned how to cultivate a passion, what kind of day to day work it takes to work towards a long term goal, how to share, how teach by example, how to listen, how to appreciate those around us and how to let a village know you care about them without ever saying a word.  We learned a new way of life, we learned new languages, we learned new eating habits, and we learned a lot of things about ourselves that can only be learned when all the extra stuff in life has been stripped away.  And these are all things that contribute to an amazing Peace Corps service, but are also things that volunteers should work to bring back to the lives in America.  We just have to spend some time translating what we learned into an American context.

Having said all of this I can safely say that I haven’t finished learning from my service.  Partly because of how abruptly I had to leave.  But also I believe that some lessons can’t be learned until we have leave and have the chance to look at them in a different light. My friends in village probably taught me more than I ever managed to teach them, but that’s the nature of the service.  I will probably carry my time in Burkina for the rest of my life and that’s something pretty special.  In that vain I will actually take this opportunity to let you, my dedicated readers, know that I will actually be keeping up with my blog as I reacclimatize to life in America.  And yes I know there are probably only 5 people who read this thing regularly.  But as I spend more time with my friends and family in America I find myself responding to questions that I never thought to ask and remembering stories that I had forgotten meant a lot to me.  Some of them hilarious, some of them thought provoking, and some of them pretty stupid.  But being back has given me the space to take a second look at some of those memories and they look a lot different when you’re this far from the dust and the heat.  So I invite you all to stick around while I try to piece my stories and memories into coherent and meaningful narrative that might capture better my time in the Sahel.  Well here’s to the rest of my life and thanks for sticking around during my two years of service in Burkina Faso.


So once PC has decided to medically evacuate you they don't really leave you with much time to get process, it's just go go go.  So I had one full day to essentially close out two years of my life.  Address my projects, leave instructions, pack my home, pass pets on to new owners, and try to say good bye to an entire village.  If it sounds impossible that's because it was.  But here is my disheveled self on my last morning in village as two of my students (top photo yellow shirts left to right) Aimé and Etienne came to see my off and my best friend Christoph rode with me to the bus station (stretch of road 200m from my house..."bus station" makes it sound so official)